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Английский напиток поссет, который Гоголь называл гоголем-моголем
Английский напиток поссет, который Гоголь называл гоголем-моголем
Из наиболее любимых Гоголем блюд было козье молоко, которое он варил особым способом, прибавляя туда рому (последний он возил с собой во флаконе). Эту стряпню он называл гоголь-моголь и часто, смеясь, говорил: «Гоголь любит гоголь-моголь». И. Ф. Золотарев по записи К. Ободовского
Писатель В. В. Вересаев в книге «Гоголь в жизни» опубликовал часть воспоминаний Ивана Федоровича Золотарёва (1812—1881), который после окончания Дерптского университета приехал в Рим, где познакомился с Гоголем. Писатель, снимавший в то время квартиру в доме 126 по улице Феличе, пригласил И. Ф. Золотарёва на какое-то время пожить вместе. Время это растянулось почти на два года: 1837 и 1838. Живя с Гоголем в одной квартире, молодой человек мог близко наблюдать его образ жизни.
Об этом довольно тесном общении с писателем Золотарев, уже будучи директором походной канцелярии кавказского наместника светлейшего князя М. С. Воронцова, вспоминал, что Гоголь «был полон жизни: веселый, разговорчивый, он был весь, так сказать охвачен красотою римской природы и подавлен массою памятников искусства, которыми был окружен. К числу особенностей Гоголя принадлежали, по словам Золотарева, его оригинальность в одежде и чрезвычайный аппетит».
«Бывало, зайдем мы, – рассказывал Золотарев, – в какую-нибудь тратторию обедать; и Гоголь покушает плотно, обед уже кончен. Вдруг входит новый посетитель и заказывает себе кушанье. Аппетит Гоголя вновь разгорается, и он, несмотря на то, что только что пообедал, заказывает себе или то же кушанье, или что-нибудь другое».
В качестве примера оригинальности вкуса писателя он привел приготовление Гоголем напитка из козьего молока и рома, видимо, потрясшее его до глубины души. Поскольку для большинства современных читателей такое сочетание тоже выглядит несколько диковатым, автор спешит сообщить им, что Николай Васильевич вовсе не оригинальничал, а готовил подобие поссета – напитка, с рецептом которого познакомился во время своих скитаний по Европе.
Изобретение поссета приписывают сэру Кенельму Дигби (1603 -1665). Английский дипломат и философ довольно много времени отдавал занятиям астрономией и алхимией. Как это часто бывало у алхимиков, попытки создать философский камень, якобы способный превращать одни вещества в другие, приводили к неожиданным, но полезным результатам. Чешские алхимики, совершенствуя арабскую технологию перегонки, получили знаменитую крепкую сливовицу, а Дигби, проводя опыт по осаждению белков молока спиртом, обнаружил, что в результате получается довольно приятный на вкус напиток, особенно если его сдобрить сахаром, цитрусовыми и пряностями. Еще более привлекательным становился напиток, если вместо спирта в молоко или сливки добавлять ром, херес или какое иное крепкое вино. Промозглый климат Англии способствовал быстрому росту популярности алхимического напитка, хорошо согревавшего тело и душу и получившего название «поссет».
Сын Кенельма Дигби после кончины отца опубликовал его труды, в которых среди прочего находились несколько рецептов изготовления напитка из молока и сливок, смешанных с вином и сахаром. Один рецепт из этой книги, изданной в Лондоне в 1671 году, выглядел так: «Возьми полгаллона сливок и вари в них немного коры корицы и три или четыре чешуйки мациса (мускатный цвет – И. С.). Для этой пропорции сливок возьми восемнадцать желтков яиц и восемь белков; пинту хереса; взбей очень хорошо яйца, а затем смешай их с хересом. Положи в смесь три четверти фунта сахара, тертый мускатный орех, порошок корицы; установи сосуд на огонь, пусть закипит; уменьши огонь, накрой крышкой и вари пока смесь не станет однородной, посыпь сахарной пудрой, растертой с тремя крупинками амбры, одной крупинкой мускуса и подай».
Фаворит королевы Елизаветы Английской, отважный искатель приключений, философ, поэт, тоже увлекающийся алхимией, сэр Уолтер Рэйли (ок. 1552 – 1618) отдавал предпочтение упрощенному и более удобному в приготовлении поссету, для приготовления которого нужно было «полпинты хереса и полпинты эля подогреть, влить в них кипящее молоко или сливки, добавить сахара и немного тертого мускатного ореха. Перед подачей добавить два желтка и хорошо взбить». В 1769 году Миссис Элизабет Раффалд, домоправительница и хозяйка заведения, в котором, несмотря на название «Кондитерская», посетителям подавали холодные закуски, суп и блюда из мяса, опубликовала кулинарный бестселлер «Опытная английская хозяйка», в котором поместила свой рецепт приготовления безалкогольного поссета, больше похожего на крем, чем на напиток. В нем роль компонента, предназначенного для свертывания сливок, выполняли органические кислоты, содержащиеся в соке апельсина и лимона.
Поссет подавали обязательно горячим в сосуде с двумя ручками и носиком для питья, начинавшимся от дна, помогавшим не потерять ни капли напитка. Своеобразная фарфоровая кружка для поссета стоила дорого и часто служила ценным подарком.
Горячим поссетом с вином англичане согревались в промозглую погоду и лечились от простуды. Его также традиционно подавали на свадьбе молодоженам, поскольку считалось, что этот напиток пробуждает желания и придает силы для их исполнения. Об этом пикантном свойстве напитка идет речь в «Свадебной балладе» поэта-кавалера сэра Джона Саклинга (1609-1642), писавшего изящные любовные стихотворения с долей остроумного цинизма:
Дошло до поцелуев тут: Они одни; дела идут, И времени хватает. Но что это? Как раз теперь Горячий поссет вносят в дверь Невестины подружки! Жених с досады взял да враз Не то ушел бы целый час! Прикончил обе кружки. Но вот погасли все огни; И чем же занялись они? Ну, чем же, в самом деле? Примерно тем – сдается мне Чем занимались на гумне Ты с Маргарет, я – с Нэлли.
Перевод М. Я. Бородицкой
Знал Гоголь о настоящем поссете или нет, но то, что он готовил на глазах изумленного Золотарева, имело явное сходство с этим английским напитком. Но вот называл он его гоголем-моголем скорее всего в шутку, используя созвучие своей фамилии с названием другого хорошо ему известного десерта, который первоначально представлял собой «сырой яичный желток, растертый с сахаром, употребляемый как лечебное средство от кашля, хрипоты и других заболеваний горла». Позднее гоголь-моголем стали называть десерты на основе растертых с сахаром желтков куриного яйца, к которым добавлялись ром, коньяк, вино, виски, мед, соки, кофе, пряности. В отличие от настоящего поссета, который обязательно варили, гоголь-моголь всегда готовили без нагревания.
Тем, кто захочет приготовить поссет, который поможет этой зимой уберечь себя от простуды, или поспособствует быстрейшему выздоровлению, или просто улучшит настроение, автор предлагает воспользоваться чисто английскими, проверенными веками рецептами. Поссет миссис Элизабет Раффалд 1769 года 1 пинта (0,56 литра) двойных (35% жирности) сливок, 4 унции (112 г) сахарной пудры, сок из двух апельсинов и цедра одного, сок половины лимона. Смешайте сливки и сахар, медленно доведите до кипения и кипятите на малом огне в течение 5 минут. Дайте остыть, добавьте соки и цедру, хорошо взбейте до загустения крема. Налейте в шесть емкостей для подачи на стол, поместите на холод в течение нескольких часов, или на ночь. Кушайте с хрустящим миндальным, либо рассыпчатым песочным печеньем. Поссет викторианской Англии 0,6 л молока, цедра половины лимона, 1/4 стакана сахара, 1 яичный белок, 1/4 стакана темного рома, 1/2 чашки бренди, щепотка корицы. Нагреть в кастрюле молоко вместе с цедрой лимона сахаром и корицей, доведя до кипения, сразу снять с огня, при помешивании добавить взбитый яичный белок, затем ром и бренди. Подавать в горячем виде.
Автор за отсутствием козьего молока приготовил викторианский поссет из обычного и, не имея возможности раздобыть настоящий английский сосуд для него, налил в бокал-снифер, предназначенный для бренди, коньяка и тематических коктейлей, а, откушав, согрелся и готов подтвердить, что сэр Джон Саклинг не ошибался относительно свойств этого горячительного напитка.
[1] Ист. Вестн., 1893, I, стр. 36. [1] В. В. Вересаев. Гоголь в жизни. Систематический свод подлинных свидетельств современников. – М.: Моск. Рабочий, 1990.